Million Dollar Man

219

this morning was pretty dam amazing again.  in fact, every morning has been pretty dam amazing.  and being a Sunday, i was surprised on how just a few people were out today…

nice chest high waves with perfect Indonesia conditions.

good to see Kona flying on his new board.

my board is working super good.  and i’m finally in tuned with my foil and board setup so i feel like i’m free surfing now.  the only thing that is different it i’m going twice as fast and 5 times the adrenaline rush.  yahoo!!!!

when i first started to foil 3 years ago, i was so frustrated that i would have paid a million dollars to be able to foil like i do now.  so yeah, i feel like a million dollars richer now!!!  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide