i was on the beach with my foil early this morning when i saw a nice set come in. i had a feeling it was the start of the new South swell so i went back to the car to get out my short board. wanted to practice for the big South swell coming this week…
back to Bowls and sitting with the boys in the lineup. good conversations and good vibes…
and good views. look at this beautiful wave Jerome caught before the sun rose. i love it!
i don’t care who’s out, but when Jeannie Chesser paddles for a wave, let the Queen go!
good to see Jeannie getting good waves. she’s surfed Bowls longer than anyone out there. some of the locals probably weren’t even born when she started surfing Bowls. so yes, respect is important!
i had so much fun on my short board. i just had to reconnect on my first few waves and now i’m back. can’t wait to get barreled this week!!!
