the other day, i overheard a guy on the beach saying “where is the South swell? the surf report said it’s 2-4′” i was laughing… when ever we get those false surf reports, there are literally hundreds of surfers waiting for it. 
yesterday it finally started to show. two days later than predicted, but that’s ok. Troy was waiting in the perfect spot.
and when you get a set at Bowls, you’re going to be stoked!
bottom turn and setting up for the next maneuver.
look at Diamond Head in the background. i can sit here every morning watching this…
did you catch Kelly Slater sticking the middle finger to John John Florence in the semifinals after John John got a good wave? frustration? poor sportsmanship? anyway, goodbye to the old king, and welcome the new one! i love it!!!
