after yesterdays short board session, i wanted more. i didn’t want to share, i just wanted a whole spot to myself. so when i woke up at 3am this morning, i already knew where i was going…
full throttle! the wind blowing at my face, the freedom in the ocean, and knowing i’ll be surfing alone. it’s an epic adrenaline rush…
this is my rehabilitation short board. it comes between my foil board and my normal shortboard. i can ride one wave with this board and everything comes back. so after riding 15 waves this morning, i’m ready for Backdoor/Pipeline now!
as i was coming back, i couldn’t believe how many surfers were out at Bowls. omg, i almost threw up! if i surfed here everyday, i’d be getting into fights for sure. so yeah, surfing secret spots to myself is whats keeping me sane through this pandemic. thank goodness for that…
