kalani robb on fire…..

289

good morning. still hanging out here in japan. surfed kyoto yesterday. it was flat in the morning and came up throughout the day. it was chest high in the evening with good conditions. there was hardly anybody out because of the lightning. guys were coming in and telling me it’s dangerous. yes it is but i wanted to get in the water. stoked i didn’t get striked by lightning. it’s a slim chance but you never know. so many surfers in japan die by lightning. unheard of in hawaii. anyway, i’m going to visit some friends and chill out for the next few days. have a nice day….

when ever i see fireworks in 7/11, i always think about something that happened in the past. it was in 1992 when i was staying with kalani robb in the grand hotel in ichinomiya, chiba. he was 13 years old back then and full of energy. we walked into 7/11 one evening to get something to eat and kalani seen the fireworks for sale. these are illegal in hawaii so he couldn’t believe that they sold it right in the store. he loaded up his basket and we headed back to our hotel. when we got back, he asked me for a lighter and i told him that i didn’t have one. 10 minutes later, i was on the 12th floor balcony drinking a beer and i heard kalani yelling “watch out”…. i looked in the room and seen him with a rocket that was lit and running toward me. that dam kid lit it on the stove in the kitchen and shot it off our balcony. he ended up lighting all his fireworks that way. i will never forget that. classic….
*and what’s more funny is how my nephews would act if they could buy fireworks in 7/11. there would be a fireworks war for sure…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide