good evening. what a long day again… dawn patrol boat style. met todd, hayato, and the 2 groms for some morning secret surf session….
this kid’s from the west side. got the confidence of sunny garcia and pulls into barrels like him too. watch out world…
after our morning session, went to pick up shun from the airport. drove thru waikiki to look for his friends…. i took this photo of him standing in waikiki. i wonder if shun knows that at this very place, surfing was born. i doubt it…
as soon as we pulled up, the other groms just came in….
i love my boat. and i think everybody that rides it loves it too. you know why? it sucks to paddle for an hour to surf secret spots. here are hitchhikers hayato and todd….
isaiah’s blowing up. his surfing got 4x better since the start of this year. i think it’s confidence….
after we surfed a reef break, we went around the corner and checked out this perfect sandbar left. gosh, nobody was out… can you believe it? got some sick photos today but you’ll just have to wait…
**oh, second session was straight to queen’s. busted out the longboards and got some pretty sick video. too tired and sunburned to do anything so going to have to wait for that too… good night…