another another another long long long day day day…. gosh, i don’t know how i get the energy to do the things i’ve been doing these days. i feel like superman or something because i’ve been surfing, diving, shooting, swimming, playing, and playing. not to mention the hours spent on my computer… but you know what? i’m pretty happy doing what i’m doing…. tired, but happy…. so today was like every other day. surf, shoot, and play… left home before 6am and was looking into a pretty killer sunrise….
check out these happy kids. shun was so happy to ride on my boat along with seth and hayato. he was smiling the whole way out… the waves were solid 4′ for adults, and 6′ for the 2 kids. but they were charging hard. i wish i could show you the photos i took but sorry. have to wait. but just let me say that the waves were big doubling up barrels over dry reef. seth and shun were pushing each other and that was cool to see. it would be even cooler to see them in the future splitting a peak at backdoor/pipe….
i will only show you one photo from today. this is superman hayato. and this is real. here’s the story behind the photo: hayato can surf, dive, shoot photos, fish, and pretty much do everything. so i told him that i bet he couldn’t fly. he looked at me with a smile as he paddled back out and said “watch”…. shit, hayato can ficken fly too. so his new nickname is “SUPERMAN”….. sick photo yeah….
**oh, today was so long that i forgot we surfed big rights this afternoon. best day of the summer? yeah. uncrowded? yeah. was everybody happy? yeah. am i out there tomorrow morning? yeah. can you give me all the sets? yeah? haha…. see you out there. oh, wanted to say thanks to the boys out there today for sharing the waves with all japanese pro’s. kazuya, hayato, and keito were getting sick waves… please share tomorrow too ok? thanks guys….
**and last. sorry everybody for putting everything like meetings and emails aside. you must know by now that i’m too busy enjoying my job. i know you understand so just wanted to say thanks….
