good morning. 5:30am big thursday. solid south swell in town. seen some consistent 4′ sets at bowls and there’s probably even bigger ones. clean conditions right now. if it’s anything like yesterday, score. 3 more south swells on the way. best best best summer ever. my legs and arms are so tired from being in the water but i just can’t get enough…. i’m out of here… have a nice and safe day….
my brother went fishing the other day and caught some aku, or katsuo. he asked me to cut it for him but i was too dam tired. i’m glad hayato is here…
and i was too tired to cook. i’m glad hayato is here… haha… itadakimasu… oh, he’s torching the sashimi to make the outside burn. it’s called “katsuo tataki” in japanese… oishi yo….
here is shun getting ready for the feast… good food after a good day. same thing today….
**2 years ago when i was in bali. i was surfing bingin when i seen this 6′ shark jump out of the water right in front of me. it didn’t scare me at all because i see sharks all the time. that night, i told bol and garut that i seen a shark jump out of the water. and you know what? they laughed at me. they told me that sharks can’t jump. now i get the last laugh.. haha…
look bol…
look garut…
now do you believe???? you better believe or else a shark will jump right in front of you someday.. haha… by the way, this guy is doing a pretty nice turn….
