good morning on this sunny monday morning in hawaii. 7am and the waves on the north shore pumping. laniakea looking solid 6′ plus right now. kind of windy but looks fun. town? forget it. tiny. get out there and enjoy this beautiful day. have a nice day….
hey, did you see the sunset yesterday evening? it was pretty awesome from aina hina….
the kids scored yesterday at haleiwa. the upcoming swell was pretty dam good until they had to cancel the contest because the waves got too big. heard solid 6′ sets came in with bigger ones up at sunset beach. first swell of the year and everybody’s loving it….
ok, so today’s the day. the scariest day of my life. i didn’t have too good of a sleep last night. kept on thinking and worrying about my eye. i’ve never had surgery in my life so this will be my first time. my arm, my leg, it’s ok. but my eye? scary. i tried to close one eye last night to imagine how it would be only with one eye. after 30 seconds, i got dizzy…
so it all started a year and a half ago. i surfed backdoor for 4 hours and shot it for 3 hours right after. on my way home from the north shore, i seen what looked to be a piece of rice in my eye. turned out to be Pteregium. it got worst and worst and finally hit my pupil. now my left eye is blurred… was going to wait till next spring to fix it, but by then, it would probably cover most of my eye so i pushed it up and today is the day. found out that a lot of surfers have Pteregium and keep it untreated. i’m going to fix mine before i can’t see out of my left eye. i’ll be down at the hospital for 4 hours and hopefully everything goes well. today is the official start of my 3 week vacation. no surfing or no diving. what the heck am i going to do????
