Crack House….

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good morning. on our way back from chiba, we did some sightseeing. we checked out one of the most famous crack house in japan. this is where Aya, from Heaven’s Coins lived. magic? what does that mean?

drugs is a big deal in japan. if you get caught using it, or selling it, your screwed. the police doesn’t need a search warrant to rampage your house. all they need is a phone call from somebody saying you do drugs and they will be all over you. then you go to jail for a long time. here is the tv crew waiting outside of noriko sakai’s house. the police won’t leave you alone, and so won’t the media…

yesterday was such a beautiful day at torami. i couldn’t resist jumping in the water to catch a few waves. i caught 2 and felt 20 times better. but my shoulder felt 20 times worst after… oh well…

i was at HIC the other day and as soon as i walked in, i saw someone familiar. it was kelia moniz. well, a poster of her. it’s one of my dreams to bring the real kelia to japan so everybody can meet her. and everybody can stop sending me hundreds of emails asking when she’s coming…. stay tuned….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide