on Christmas Eve, the waves were super good in the morning. i surfed it with a hundred other guys. then the wind came and it got junk so everybody went in. then after lunch, i felt the cool North winds at my face, which means offshore! so i rushed down to Bowls and the waves turned magically perfect! paddled my fastest out and there were only a few guys out. see me going for the barrel on this gem? well, i was on these waves back to back for an hour. it was the best South shore session at Bowls for me. and one of the guys out told me that this is the absolute best Bowls can ever get. it was barreling on every single wave. i actually thought i was surfing Macaroni’s in the Mentawai’s. so happy!
then on Christmas morning, i knew it wouldn’t be as good as the Eve so i just went with the flow. much more people and not even half as good, but i still enjoyed the moment.
Jeannie Chesser with the rainbow…
Troy on a medium size set…
Malcom getting this wave as his Christmas gift. priceless… thank you Santa for the beautiful waves!!!
