i was sitting on the beach in the pitch dark stargazing. then this surfer walks my way and freaks out because he couldn’t see me. haha. i still don’t know how i actually walk down Diamond Head Cliff’s in the dark. try hiking by feel, it’s pretty freaky…
can you see Molokai on the left side of the sunrise? every time i see it, i miss it…
for all the town surfers, you don’t know how lucky you are to have a solid South swell in December…
an Okinawan Christmas. wish i was there… thank you Takahashi-san for the photo.
Mt. Fuji with no snow on Christmas day? what’s going on? i hope she’s alright… thank you Takami-san for the photo.
since i started surfing again, i’ve been in friendly heated conversations with locals about foilers. some make sense, and some are nonsense. i will get into that later but i didn’t realize how much surfers hate foilers. haha.
what do you do on Christmas Day in Hawaii? one thing we do is make chocolate/peanut butter cups…
made with pure love… hope you guys had a wonderful Christmas…