so far, i’ve been doing super good this year of spending every sunrise in the ocean. today was yet another beautiful morning…
we were totally surprised because there was a new swell! these swells are actually from that huge North/West swell we have now. they are wrapping all the way around the island so it’s pretty perfect. tomorrow should be bigger and better!
i foiled a bunch of waves, then sat on the side and took some photos because the lighting was so beautiful!
when i got came home, i saw a lost dog in my yard. i went out to call him and he came towards me.
as he was coming to me, he stopped and lifted up his leg and took a pee all over my rosemary plant!!! omg, i was so pissed!
about 3x a week, there are rescue helicopters flying in and out of my valley. they pass by my house making so much noise and i know exactly where they’re going. see that top ridge in the way back? that’s where everybody gets hurt because it’s super dangerous. then it’s impossible to hike your way back down because it’s too steep.
each rescue costs the government thousands of dollars. and not only that, it jeopardizes the safety of the rescue guys. so please be safe. if you’re not super fit to go up this mountain, don’t go because it’s very dangerous.
anyway, going to sleep by 7pm because tomorrow will be perfect somewhere in town. i’ll see you there!
