Gutters and Bomb Proof

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when a wave comes in, you should share.  so one guy going right and one girl going left on the same wave is the way to do it.    

and when you surf this spot every single day like this girl, you know exactly what to do.

this is a very nice bottom turn.  i had to get out of the way before she ran me over so this is the last photo of the sequence.  

OMG, i accidentally dropped a lens from my car down the gutter!  

so i was sticking my head down the side and trying to grab it with all different kinds of tools.  nothing worked!

so i had to open the 80lbs. manhole cover and stuck my head down there too.  i’m actually pretty scared going down to small spaces like that.  so i had an idea! 

i used a tongs!  then i was able to stick my head and arm down and squeeze it.  i was so happy!

but i learned something very important.  next time there is a missile warning, i’m taking my family down this drain and waiting till it’s over.  this is probably the safest place to be!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide