still keeping my early morning sunrise surf streak alive. today the winds were super bad in the morning but went out anyway. most of the locals didn’t go out and went home. so it was pretty peaceful.
then the storm came and it was so beautiful. the best time to be in the water when the storm comes because once it passes, the conditions could change.
the rain passed, the rainbow came out, and the conditions turned offshore and perfect.
in the matter of minutes, the waves went from junky onshore, to straight offshore.
and it was barreling! and guess what? no locals and hardly anybody else was out!
i slept from 7pm to 4am last night so i was fully charged to try out my new foil board.
Trinko made this foil board and it was working so good! it felt so alive!
then went to check Diamond Head for round 2. small, crowded, and junky so i passed.
instead, i drove out to the East side to check out the waves. when i got to the beach, i couldn’t believe how many people where there! are we really in the middle of a pandemic??? come on Kailua, be more responsible!!! went out front to foil and thankfully nobody was out…