Surfing 101: Sea Urchin

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i was surfing with Leo, then this tourist couple comes out and sits right next to us and starts to catch every single wave.  i was annoyed and was going to say something to them but i kept silent.    i kept silent because i knew what was coming up.  the guy would catch a wave, then start standing and walking on the reef.  i told Leo “hey Leo, watch this guy, any minute he will say “ouch!”  Leo didn’t understand what i was saying but i told him “remember i told you not to stand on the reef?”  he said “yes.”  i said “ok, watch what happens.”

on the very next wave, i hear “ouch!!!”  then the guy was looking at his foot.  he stepped on sea urchin!!!  then that was the last wave for him.  i really believe in karma and this was a classic case of it.

Leo asked me if it hurts.  i told him “imagine me poking 20 needles into your foot, then leaving it in.”  haha.  that’s what it feels like.  and the sea urchin is still alive when it’s in your foot.  so the lesson of the day was “hey Leo, learn from other peoples mistakes.”  he said “i’m never stepping on the reef.”  smart boy…

by the way, i usually tell people not to step on the reef but in this situation, silence was golden.  my main goal was to teach this kid not to stand on the reef, and also not to paddle out and try to take every wave.  a little respect will get you far in surfing…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide