Tourist Trap?

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when i pulled up to Diamond Head, i saw something weird.  this convertible rental car had the top down with their suitcases, golf clubs, and bags fully exposed.  i parked next to it and was thinking the owners were nearby.  i was looking for them but nobody was around.  i thought it was a police trap.  haha.  

15 minutes later, finally the tourists come back.  i ask them “hey, where were you?”  they said they walked down the cliff to the beach.  OMG!  i told them “hey, don’t ever leave your valuables in the car like this.  you are lucky nobody stole it!”  he thought i was joking so i told him, “this might seem like paradise, but people steal here and i’m surprised nobody stole your stuff.”  he said thank you and left.  i hope he knew i was serious…

June 22, 1997:  this is Bol and i at G-Land in Indonesia.  the waves were a perfect 4-6′ with bigger sets every single day.  it was like barrel and off the lip paradise!  after 4 days of that, we actually got bored of surfing perfect waves so we caught the ferry and made the 8 hour drive back to Bali.  then we scored perfect 6-8′ Padang Padang.  back then, there weren’t any internet, cel phones, or surf reports.  so yeah, i guess you could say we scored!

 

 

 

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide