when i pulled up to Diamond Head, i saw something weird. this convertible rental car had the top down with their suitcases, golf clubs, and bags fully exposed. i parked next to it and was thinking the owners were nearby. i was looking for them but nobody was around. i thought it was a police trap. haha.
15 minutes later, finally the tourists come back. i ask them “hey, where were you?” they said they walked down the cliff to the beach. OMG! i told them “hey, don’t ever leave your valuables in the car like this. you are lucky nobody stole it!” he thought i was joking so i told him, “this might seem like paradise, but people steal here and i’m surprised nobody stole your stuff.” he said thank you and left. i hope he knew i was serious…
June 22, 1997: this is Bol and i at G-Land in Indonesia. the waves were a perfect 4-6′ with bigger sets every single day. it was like barrel and off the lip paradise! after 4 days of that, we actually got bored of surfing perfect waves so we caught the ferry and made the 8 hour drive back to Bali. then we scored perfect 6-8′ Padang Padang. back then, there weren’t any internet, cel phones, or surf reports. so yeah, i guess you could say we scored!