Pilau means Dirty

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it was 6pm yesterday evening and i already ate dinner so i was ready for bed.  then i checked the waves and it looked super fun.  the water was super clean too.  so i drove down and paddled out right as the sun set.  i had the best after sunset session ever…

today i was thinking the exact same thing but when i checked the ocean this evening, the water was dirty again!  oh no!  this is stinky Bowls.

then i saw the dirty water moving its way to Rockpiles.  i thought i’d drive down and make it for a few waves before it got totally dirty.

right when i was about to leave, the stinky water took over Rockpiles and there was no way i wanted to jump into that.  now i can sleep by 7pm tonight.  yeah!

as for North shore, it hasn’t been clean in over a week.  and it’s looking like we’ll have to wait another week.  as for South shore, it might not be as brown as the North shore, but i guarantee you it’s 10x more dirty.  so tomorrow is going to be tricky to find some clean water to fly in.  but i’ll be looking from 4am…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide