i took another gamble this morning and decided to search for a perfect wave. luckily, i didn’t have to search that far. when i see swells like this, i get excited!
and the more swells i saw, the more excited i got. so i threw in the anchor and paddled straight to it.
there were only a couple girls out so lots of room for me to fly around. i couldn’t believe how good and empty it was. this is a surfers dream…
tried out my new board and it worked like magic! i ordered this one for the Summer because i want to paddle in to huge waves. and this is the board to do that!
i was thinking about catching a few waves at Bowls on the way in, but after i saw this, i said forget it. i was already totally satisfied…
