i really needed to challenge myself to something different. so i drove my car down the road and hid my slippers in a tree. i did this because i knew if i succeeded, i would have to walk a few miles back to my car. 
then i drove barefoot up the coast, parked my car, and jumped off these rocks. i paddled out, caught a wave, pumped straight out to sea, and then started to foil the wind swell as far as i could. it was my first time so i was pretty exited. maybe too excited because my heartbeat was so high that my cardio was pretty bad. i fell 3x so had to paddle all the way back to the waves, catch one, pump back out, and do it all over again. it was probably the best workout i’ve done in my life. 
so i made it a couple miles down, grab my slippers from the tree, then start the 40 minute walk back to my car. half way there, a guy pulled behind me and said “unko, you need a ride?” thank you Zeke Lau for taking this old man back to his car. i was almost going to give up and never do that again. but now, i’m going to keep trying until i accomplish my mission… 
i haven’t been this tired in a while. from paddling, to foiling, to hiking, to walking. i hope to be able to do this without being so tired. until then, i’ll never give up…
