Downwind Foiling Day 2

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today i was keeping my eye on the wind all day long and waiting for the right time.  then when i could imagine myself foiling down with the wind, i prepared myself for the long ride.

i drove to my finish line and hid my slippers in the tree.  the reason is i don’t want to walk barefoot for miles back to my car on the hot pavement.

then i drove to my starting point.  all i need is to catch one of these swells, pump out to sea, and ride the wind down the coast as far as possible…

i had a really good start today.  i made it a lot farther than yesterday without falling.  yesterday i fell 3 times, today i only fell once.  and even though i still feel a little lost at sea, i can connect much better and understand the flow.  tomorrow will be even better…

the hardest part of down winding is walking back to your car.  i can paddle and paddle for miles and miles without getting tired.  but when i walk for miles, i get tired and my legs hurt.  nobody picked me up today so i was almost going to call an Uber.  haha.  so the longer i foil, the longer i walk.  soon this walk will be easy for me because down winding will be a daily routine this Summer…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide