i did the stupidest thing yesterday. i got towed into a wave, saw my friend getting towed into the one behind, so as i was riding, i took out my camera and started taking photos. i usually do this on small waves, but on big waves, you’re going twice as fast so it’s very dangerous. anyway, i fell down, lost my board, then a big white water and my own foil ran me over. i thought i was going to get cut and go to the hospital for sure. luckily, it missed my head by inches. i came up and was looking for Kaiborg because i didn’t want him to see that. he would have been pissed! never again… 
the master doing what he does best. i watch carefully and try to copy everything he does. he makes it look so easy but it’s actually really hard. hopefully all this practice rounds will pay off…
then i stopped by my friends house. when we were little kids, Lane and i use to play all day long. i use to live on the North Shore so we would run to Haleiwa harbor, hang out at Sea View Inn, fish for crayfish, and just do kid stuff. we were only 6 years old back then. no iPhones, iPads, games, or any type of electronics. those were the good old days. nice catching up with you Lane. hope we can do dive, fish, or catch crayfish like we use to…
