Bigger isn’t Better

185

everybody thought today was going to be smaller than yesterday.  nope!  it was way bigger than yesterday and since it was unexpected, Bowls hardly had anyone out.  i’d say 1/3 of the crowd compared to yesterday.  here is Troy on a good one!  

when Bowls gets super big, you have to choose the right one.  and sometimes the right one isn’t necessarily the biggest one.  here you have some local knowledge…

the medium ones that break on the inside reef have better form.  so as for Bowls, bigger isn’t alway better.

so stoked to see the young Tokoro generation in the lineup.  the earlier, the better…

super good respectful kids are always welcome to any lineup…

tomorrow will still have good sized waves.  and Monday is the biggest swell so far this Summer.  so we’ll have 8 more days of solid surf!  i put my foil away and i’m going to chase the barrels!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide