it’s already September and while all the town surfers are sad that Summer is coming to an end, i’m super excited that the Winter big wave season is right around the corner. for the past 6 months, i’ve been waking up every morning at 3am and staying focused. exercising, eating right, and keeping alert. by 4am, i’m always 100% ready mentally and physically for the biggest and craziest thing i will ever attempt in my life. when that call comes, i’m going to drive out to the North Shore, meet up with the boys, and i’m going to let go of the rope on a 20′ set. that’s my dream. and i can see that dream becoming reality very soon…
these are the small waves we just train on. here is my sensei Kaiborg showing me how it’s done. after towing in with these guys, i learned so many new things. but the most important is taking care of my body and mind. when both of that are healthy, anything is possible…
