i was sitting on the hill playing with the chickens. it made me really miss Pepper…
the biggest day of the last historic swell, we all jumped off Magic Island to paddle to Bowls. it’s usually flat and calm here but not on this day. it was wild just trying to get in the water. 
Diamond Head use to be my training ground. for a period of 10 or more years, i would surf there every single day. so there’s a lot of special memories still in the water there…
