i was up at 3am watching the news and getting ready for today. i knew it was going to be special! South shore 8-12′ faces!!!
before i went to sleep last night, i made sure i had all my equipment ready. no excuses…
we got out in the dark and ended up tow in foiling for 4 hours! the waves were big and perfect! want to thank my partner for the crazy rides!
before we went in, i showed my friend some of the secret spots i surfed since i was a kid. this one only had 4 guys out and the waves were so perfect!
still solid swells tomorrow so waking up early again and searching for the biggest wave again!
