wow, the waves were super good this morning at Bowls! so good to be surfing on the short board again!
look how perfect these lefts are! it’s by far the best left on the South Shore! 
i borrowed Joshua’s magic board. it’s his Kerry Tokoro “Mojo” model. right when i caught my first wave, i knew it was magic! now i don’t want to give it back to Joshua. omg, what am i going to tell him? haha…
the surf report got it wrong again. it wasn’t even close to the 5-7′ like everybody expected. i live in the “South Shore” world of no expectations so everything is a bonus for me! i’ll take anything, and everything!
just being in the ocean and watching guys trying their best is pretty cool. nobody’s perfect so just have to enjoy the ride!
now that i have a magic board, i’m going to fine tune it to perfection. every little adjustment counts. can’t wait to surf it again tomorrow!
