every spot in Hawaii has “old timers.” these guys are in their upper 60’s to late 70’s and are having the best time of their lives. i can see them smiling, i can hear them laughing, and i can tell they’re loving life to the fullest. i sit in the inside of these guys and just watch them thinking to myself “i hope i’m doing this at that age.” 
they tease each other, they drop in on each other, and they are very competitive with each other. old timers playing in the ocean like little kids…
here’s the old timers rule: when you see these guys paddle for a wave, don’t even try to go. it’s just showing respect which is very important. sometimes i see younger surfers trying to drop in and i tell them “brah, don’t do that again!” but overall, most surfers understand that rule…
so happy to see Tokura-san, Takami-san, Toda-san, and Kamio hanging out at one of my favorite secrets spots in the world. miss you guys! 
Toda-san lost so much weight and it’s showing in his surfing. i’m super happy for him! i can’t wait to surf with you guys!
