Explore Backside Hawaii

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did you watch the Olympics and see the end of the triathlon race?  a few competitors passed out because of the heat.  i use to think it wasn’t that hot in Tokyo until i experienced it for myself.  i almost passed out walking 5 minutes to the train station.  i can’t explain how hot it gets…

it’s not that hot in Hawaii because we have the ocean surrounding us.  i got a call this afternoon from my friend on the North shore.  he asked me if i wanted to go to explore a new spot.  i said “sure!”  i towed him into some amazing waves!

then he towed me into some amazing waves too.  we caught it outside in the blue water and foiled it to the beach for 2 minutes long.  it was the first time i foiled here.  i felt like i was on some exotic island off Indonesia.

by the end of each wave, my legs were totally burnt.  if i wasn’t in the ocean, i’d probably faint!  i drove my truck for an hour, then the jetski for an hour just to get here.  it was only us 2 and i would have taken a 12 hour flight just for this session!  still lots of exploring of Hawaii to catch up on…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide