i went out to Bowls early this morning. i knew it was going to be small, but i also knew it was going to be peaceful. just 2 of the boys out with epic conditions. there were enough waves to make everybody happy…
one of my friends said “just imagine if there was a contest on waves like this.” i told him “omg, i’ve surfed contests with waves way smaller than this in Japan.” the didn’t believe me but if you surfed the JPSA in the early 1990’s, you know it’s true. that was my first experience of culture shock!
but thanks to all the experience of surfing small waves in Japan, i can ride a knee high wave and still have the time of my life…
i watched this fire start, then grow into a huge black smoke screen!
it was burning for a very long time. that was the big news in Hawaii today. anyway, we have 2 back to back South swells coming in starting Tuesday. i have no expectations so if it turns out to be only knee high, i’ll still take it!
