WCT: The Secret Barra

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i was watching Seth’s Round 2 heat and he surfed it really well.  Barra is a very good wave, but the tricky part is finding the good ones.  if you get the good waves, you will get the good scores.  it’s just so perfect!  Seth got one of the best waves of the day in this heat and scored a 8.70 out of 10.

flawless turns…

at Barra, you can either paddle back out to the lineup after riding a wave.  the current is strong so your arms better be strong.  OR, you can run along the beach back up to the point and jump back in the lineup.  but your legs better be strong.  i’ve done both here at Barra and both is pretty hard to do.  it’s the craziest workout in the 100 degree hot sun.  i remember almost fainting on that beach because i was so dehydrated.  i don’t remember it being so fun getting back out either way…

Seth lost in Round 3 and i was devastated.  i felt like throwing my iPhone against the wall and screaming!  when Seth loses, i feel like i lost.  it’s so frustrating!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide