yesterday was solid overhead and very consistent. you can see how big it is because Bowls starts to have 2 peaks. so when i woke up early this morning, i thought there would at least be a few leftover head high sets. oh boy i was wrong! the waves were barely chest high and very inconsistent. none of the locals could believe it too. i haven’t experienced a sudden drop in a South swell like this ever in my life. it felt good to be in the ocean anyway…
there is a restaurant 3 minutes from my house that sells the best bbq short ribs. super juicy and really tender. a perfect meal after a long surf…
for the next few days, the waves will be small and the tide will be high in the morning. that means it’s “foil time!” thank you Robbie for the shot. always nice to fly with you!
Tahiti will be closing their airports again so that means the next WCT contest is cancelled! that’s shocking news for the whole surf industry because that was one of the most exciting contests of the year. sad covid news.
