Monday: i went out to foil with the North Shore boys. then after a few waves, i sat on the inside and let the boys fly by me. this is the view i had. isn’t it so amazing? 
Tuesday: i went to Big Rights and i was alone for a while. then a guy paddled out and it was just the 2 of us. look how glassy the water surface was. can you imagine 6′ barrels with these conditions? i wouldn’t believe it either…
Wednesday: that’s today so wait until tonight to see what i got with my lens. i’m really liking to shoot photos again because i love the results…
