after paddling out once to Bowls, and twice to Big Rights yesterday, i felt lazy today. i almost didn’t have enough energy to surf but i got some help from Mayuki. once i leave the harbor, my heart starts beating and i’m rejuvenated!
i passed Bowls and it was perfect again. the only thing i don’t like about surfing Bowls when it’s big is the water gets super stinky and dirty. the big waves stirs up the sediment from the bottom of the canal. and i don’t want that in my body. yuck…
i passed by Big Rights and i just couldn’t resist. perfect 3-5′ and lots of my good friends out. talking story, exchanging barrels, and just having a peaceful time.
i told myself that i would just catch 3 waves and will be done. i ended up catching 20 waves and surfed for almost 4 hours. i feel excited like i just started to surf again. haha.
i take 2 boards when the waves get big just in case one breaks. luckily i didn’t break a board on this strong historic swell.
got some photos from yesterday at Bowls. some guys were calling it 10′ but i’d say it was more like 8′ on my scale. that’s still double overhead. this swell will be talked about for many years to come…
