a lot of surfers been asking me about my Big Right dream session. my answer is: it was 6′ solid with 8′ sets. only me out for 45 minutes loving my life. the current was super strong, the waves were super powerful, and it was very challenging. but when you catch a wave, you’re making history because it was the biggest day in over 40 years. it’s almost surreal…
i have a lot of time on my hands so i like to use my hands. my Mom needed her bathroom painted so that was no problem.
i started off caulking and taping up.
now it looks brand new. i was amazed on how good it came out. i was kind of proud of myself. haha…
one girl i’m very proud of is Seira-chan. she’s a very good surfer, a very good girl, and a very good champion. i can’t believe she just turned 22 years old. Happy Birthday Seira-chan!
