we surfed another early morning session. i didn’t expect the waves to be bigger than yesterday but it sure was. lots of waves and lots of jellyfish too.
look what i ate today! this has to be the fattest burrito on the island. after i ate the whole thing, i felt like a pig. haha.
round 2 was at a secret spot. we took out these boards and had the whole spot to ourselves.
when you have the whole ocean to yourself, you can scream, yell, laugh, and ride any wave your heart desires. it was surely a dream session for us three amigos…
i’ve been working and thinking hard about my own surfboards recently. it’s the first time in my life i’m super focused on getting the perfect magic boards. and so far, all the hard work is paying off because whenever i ride my surfboards now, i feel super connected. i haven’t felt this way about surfing for over 10 years…
