Ben Aipa and Triangles

192

when Ben Aipa use to coach me 33 years ago, he use to sit right here on top of Diamond Head Cliffs.  he taught me about the lineup, the current, the winds, the waves, and the swell direction.  he basically made me master the lineup because we had many contests there.  i had to run up and down the cliff multiple times a day.  when i did something he didn’t like, he would whistle to me, then i would have to come back in, climb up the trail, and he would tell me what i did wrong.  then i would have to go back down and do it all over again.  that trained me to surf Cliffs physically and mentally.  and now i love to pass that knowledge on to my students.  so they’re getting some Ben Aipa coaching techniques.  maybe i should make them run up and down the hill too.  that taught me how to listen really good.  haha…you have a gorgeous view from the top.  look to the right and you can see the island of Molokai.  

Ben use to teach me the secret about triangles.  do you know what it means?  probably not but if you did, it would make you a much better surfer at every surf spot around the world.  sorry, that secret is just for my students…

then after sweating on the top of the hill, i go down and cool off in the beautiful ocean.  then ride a couple waves to fulfill my day.  can’t beat that feeling…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide