Rare Bowls

129

Opps, I’ve been looking back at some posts I forgot to push the publish button. Maybe too tired? Too many beers? Or both? Anyway, this is from September 5, 2021. I have 165 more that I forgot to post. Will do from now.

we’ve been having a rare South/East swell these past 2 days.  so the waves at Bowls have been weird.  nothing close to perfect, but if you search for the right one, it will be better than any wave on a normal day.  so yes, i’ve been searching for the perfect wave.

the rights at Bowls usually doesn’t barrel like this.  so yeah, this morning had its special rare moments.

i came home to wash and wax the truck.  and guess what?  as soon as i was done, it rained like always.  haha.

umm, i don’t know my thoughts on this one.  it might be fun, but it will also cause major traffic.  so no, i don’t like it and i hope i never see this on the streets again.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide