i was running around all day picking up things for my foil. i feel like a kid going to all the toy stores on the island. it’s so fun!
i saw this swell coming a week ago so i was getting prepared. North shore 8-12′ tomorrow so the first swell of the season. i already got the call i’ve been waiting for so i better go to sleep early.
when i was a young kid, i never use to appreciate nature so much. now, i’m absorbing and taking in every little minute of it. it just makes me super calm and really appreciative to be alive…
