Peoples Watching

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i really like to people watch.  it teaches me a lot about a persons personality so i decided to sit on the beach before i paddled out today and watch.  in the 15 minutes i was on the beach, i must have seen 40 surfers paddle out before the sunrise.  i was watching how people carried their board, how they put on their leash, and how they interacted with others.  just by looking at that, i could tell their surfing level.  try it…

when i got out to Bowls, i couldn’t believe how good it was!  it was perfect!  omg, lucky us…

then i came in and watched the waves and people for another hour.  it was a very interesting morning.

then i went to look at Diamond Head in the afternoon and the waves were super good.  so i grabbed my foil and rode 5 endless waves.  

then sat in my car and watched for another hour.  boats going by, passing showers, rainbows, windy waves, and happy surfers.  today i decided to observe and i learned a lot about people and nature.  might do it again tomorrow…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide