i really like to people watch. it teaches me a lot about a persons personality so i decided to sit on the beach before i paddled out today and watch. in the 15 minutes i was on the beach, i must have seen 40 surfers paddle out before the sunrise. i was watching how people carried their board, how they put on their leash, and how they interacted with others. just by looking at that, i could tell their surfing level. try it…
when i got out to Bowls, i couldn’t believe how good it was! it was perfect! omg, lucky us…
then i came in and watched the waves and people for another hour. it was a very interesting morning.
then i went to look at Diamond Head in the afternoon and the waves were super good. so i grabbed my foil and rode 5 endless waves.
then sat in my car and watched for another hour. boats going by, passing showers, rainbows, windy waves, and happy surfers. today i decided to observe and i learned a lot about people and nature. might do it again tomorrow…