Serious Business

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the first Winter swell came and gone.  when i was out there foiling the super big and powerful waves, i realized how mentally prepared you must be.  equipment is one thing, but the mental game is the key to success.  you can’t show any signs of fear because that will affect the split second decisions that need to be made.  so i decided to stop short boarding for now and focus 100% on exercising and foiling.  i know that 20′ swell is coming soon and i’ve been waiting all year for that.  i can always short board after that…  

preparation is important too.  i’m constantly moving my mast around so the faster i can do it, the better.  this will make it way faster and a lot easier.  

a guy in Hawaii custom makes these screws for the foil.  now i don’t need to take my wrench out in the water because i can turn these easily with my finger.  it’s good to have.

the North shore boys i go towing with are all in their 50’s.  age doesn’t matter because we act like teenagers.  joking, laughing, and playing around all the time.  but when it’s time to drop into a huge wave, the laughter stops and it’s down to serious business…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide