i was watching Tommy take off on this beautiful wave so i positioned myself in the right place. i was going up the wave pointing my camera down at him.
then i waited a few inches away from where i knew he was going to hit the lip. this is something only surfers can understand. if i was too close he would run me over, and if i was too far, the photo wouldn’t be so dramatic. so positioning was very important.
then i put my camera higher because i was going down the back of the wave. i wanted to get the spray coming off his surfboard into the golden light.
then here it is “the golden shower.” i love it!
