Ala-Menta-Wai

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34 years ago, i was taught by Tony Moniz to that in order to be a great surfer, you have to be able to surf every spot on this island.  and ever since then, i’ve been doing that.  so after a week straight at Bowls, i decided to listen to my coach and surf somewhere else.  

i jumped on Mayuki in the dark and headed out for an early morning session somewhere out in the sea.  i had no idea where i would end up…

i paddled out in the dark and couldn’t see much.  but when the sun came up, i realized how good the waves were.

i jumped back on my foil and did a lot more and a lot bigger turns then i did all week on my short board.  omg, i was flying!

imagine riding a 10′ wave on your surfboard and doing a roundhouse cutback.  that’s how it feels when i’m riding a waist high wave on my foil.  it’s pretty amazing!  

and now that i’ve been surfing so much, i feel like my foiling got a lot better too.  i can do things i’ve never ever dreamed of.  when i got back in to the harbor, i felt like i went on a short trip to the Mentawai Island.  i was smiling all day while i was gazing at this photo all day long.  haha.  it’s my best one yet!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide