34 years ago, i was taught by Tony Moniz to that in order to be a great surfer, you have to be able to surf every spot on this island. and ever since then, i’ve been doing that. so after a week straight at Bowls, i decided to listen to my coach and surf somewhere else.
i jumped on Mayuki in the dark and headed out for an early morning session somewhere out in the sea. i had no idea where i would end up…
i paddled out in the dark and couldn’t see much. but when the sun came up, i realized how good the waves were.
i jumped back on my foil and did a lot more and a lot bigger turns then i did all week on my short board. omg, i was flying!
imagine riding a 10′ wave on your surfboard and doing a roundhouse cutback. that’s how it feels when i’m riding a waist high wave on my foil. it’s pretty amazing!
and now that i’ve been surfing so much, i feel like my foiling got a lot better too. i can do things i’ve never ever dreamed of. when i got back in to the harbor, i felt like i went on a short trip to the Mentawai Island. i was smiling all day while i was gazing at this photo all day long. haha. it’s my best one yet!