wow, it was another beautiful day in town. a nice South swell with absolutely perfect conditions. i went out with my foil, rode waves, saw some perfect shoulder high sets, foiled a wave to the beach, got my shortboard, and paddled back out. today’s surprise swell was better for a shortboard.
the swell direction and the winds were the best it’s been for a very long time. it was super perfect Ala Moana Bowls!
Chizu-chan was getting a lot of good waves today. not too many people knew about this freak swell so the surfers out this morning scored!
long perfect lefts all morning long. one of my best Bowls sessions in a very long time.
well, the waves on the North shore finally came up. i already got the call so tomorrow i’ll be there in the full moon waiting for first light to come. then i’ll be flying high!
