gosh, we’ve been having some really beautiful sunrises and sunsets recently. the winds are cool, the air is crisp, and the colors are amazing. 
i was surfing Bowls yesterday and two of the longtime locals come out. Lance Hookano and Brian Amona have been surfing longer than most of us were even alive. they traveled the world, they are very respected, and they come from some deep Hawaiian bloodline. if these guys paddle out to any spot on this island, stay clear. don’t even paddle for a wave they paddle for. and if you don’t know them personally, don’t even look at them. i’m just lucky i know these guys because if i didn’t, i would paddle in if they both were out. why? because there are usually 2 waves per set, and these guys get both of them, and when they get back out to the lineup, they don’t have to wait in line. it’s just the rules you follow…
Brian taking off and as you can see, nobody is paddling for this wave and nobody is in his way. that’s called “respect.” 
Lance has been like an older brother to me for the past 35 years. super grateful for him always being nice to me. a good guy to know in the water, and out of the water…
