i started off the day with a dawn patrol out in the middle of the sea. today was the best day for my foiling life because i caught the biggest and best wave ever! i was flying!!!
it’s amazing how much you can learn just by putting yourself in the most dangerous situations. but in the end, it all comes down to your mental game. the more calm you can be, the more chance you can survive.
you just never know when you’ll get the wave of your lifetime. totally unexpected, but today was that day for me…
the waves were so good so i stayed out on the North Shore all day. when i saw Velzyland barreling at 3-5′ and totally empty, i grabbed my short board and joined the dream session!
it was good to see my North Shore surfer friends in the ocean today. and it was also good to spend one of the best days of my life in the ocean today. as you get older, life only gets better…
