Accidents Happen and Timing is Everything

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omg, i was driving down my street and saw an accident that just happened.  this guy on a motorcycle hit a van!

the motorcycle looked like it was going fast.  and when i saw the rider on the ground, i almost threw up.  i don’t think i want to ride a motorcycle anymore…

did you go trick or treat?  this kid got candy from someone who put a needle in it.  omg!

this happened in Ohio and that was a sewing needle.  good thing the kid didn’t eat it!  what’s wrong with this world?

i drove by Diamond Head and wasn’t planning to surf.  i watched it for 20 minutes and almost everybody came in.  so i grabbed my foil and went out.  there was only 1 stand up paddler, 1 long boarder, and me for an hour.  it was like a dream session for me!  i felt so free!!!

i foiled for 2 hours and it was hard to come in because it was still very uncrowded.  today was a lucky day because there are usually 100 surfers out when the conditions are perfect like this.  tomorrow the trade winds will be back so it won’t be like this for a while.  timing is everything…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide