Behind the Shots: Timor to Africa

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back in 2009, i went on a surf/dive trip with the Red Sea Ocean Adventures crew.  we scored some pretty good waves, and we scored some pretty good fish.  this is Eric Walker catching his monster fish.  i shot it with a Canon 20D with a 15mm lens.  it was an amazing trip.  wish you were there…

this shot was taken in 1999 by world famous photographer Chris Van Lennep at Jeffrey’s Bay in South Africa.  we got to surf this perfect uncrowded wave for 7 days in a row.  after that trip, i told myself i’m content and will never go back because i knew it couldn’t get better than that.  now it’s super crowded and this is where Mick Fanning got attacked by a great white shark on live tv.  i wasn’t surprised because you could see and feel the wildlife right under your board.  there were dolphins and seals swimming right under you.  it was beautiful, and yet scary.  the only reason i’d go back to South Africa is to go on safaris.  for me, that was way more exciting than surfing the best right point wave in the world.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide