i went out super early to the North shore. the waves were way bigger than i expected so i went to check out Backdoor. when i saw the ocean, i instantly got butterflies in my stomach. i knew it was too big for the board i had, but i also knew i couldn’t pass up 6′ barrels.
so i grab my new 6’1 Kerry Tokoro that i never tried before. i just got off multiple days of foiling. but mentally and physically, i’m 100% ready for anything. this is what i live for. i was walking down the empty beach to enter Pipeline. i was excited and my heart was beating fast, but i knew i had to leave my emotions on the beach. i get out and guys like John John Florence and Billy Kemper were out. Backdoor/Pipeline is the mecca of surfing. everything is intense. after i caught my first wave, i felt calm and confident. it felt so good to be mixed up with the major league surfers in the world. all it does is make me want to be better. and better i’ll be…
