another day of searching for the perfect wave, and for clean water. this was Bowls in the morning and even though the waves were perfect, you wouldn’t want to surf in that rubbish.
compared to yesterday, the debris went down a little.
the line of debris is going right into the lineup at Bowls. it was pretty cool to see how the ocean is trying to clean itself up. the currents, winds, and waves all play a factor on how this will go away.
i drove around looking for clean water. this is one of the premier spots on the South shore and there was only 1 local surfer out. i won’t say where because i’m going there again tomorrow and i don’t want to see anyone out. haha. 2 days ago Bowls had 2 guys out, yesterday nobody at Big rights, and today 1 guy here. this has been the best 3 days of the year for me on the South shore. i love December!
on the way in, i was dodging big logs. imagine your surfboard hitting one of these? ouch!
if i were you, i’d stay far away from the Ala Wai. yuck…
